undercover fall winter 2020 Paris fashion week
Filippo Fior / gorunway.com

Loyal followers of UNDERCOVER appreciate Jun Takahashi’s penchant for films, with the designer often electing one such classic as a referential starting point for future collections. Last fall, Takahshi drew artistic influence from Stanley Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey, which saw models parade down the runway in space helmets and metallic body suits. This time around, the Japanese artist chose Akira Kurosawa’s Throne of Blood to pull riffs from, setting the stage for a range influenced by feudal Japan.

Filippo Fior / gorunway.com

Filippo Fior / gorunway.com

Heralded by some as Paris Fashion Week’s first reference point to Asia, the show was sectioned-off by a three-part dance number choreographed by Damien Jalet, as both male and female models stormed the stage in kimono-style tops and Geta sandals. Given the forceful barbarity of the film, UNDERCOVER called attention to a throng of military staples, including duck boots, cargo pants, berets, utility vests and statement outerwear meant to resemble Samurai body armor.

Filippo Fior / gorunway.com

Filippo Fior / gorunway.com

Moody hues of deep reds, dark greens and smokey grey illustrate Takahashi’s affection for dark, sombre settings—a familiar palette from the label’s storied past. In typical UNDERCOVER fashion, a plethora of textiles and prints flood the senses, as slouchy knitwear, cotton cardigans, nylon puffer coats and plaid scarves bolstered by sack-like trousers speak of the label’s flair for the dramatic. Elsewhere, Takahashi put on a clinic for expressive layering, often combining several signature pieces within the same ensemble. For example, many fits featured on oversized kimono placed overtop and elongated overcoat, with a decorative sash blanketing the whole lot.

Speaking of Paris Fashion Week, Virgil Abloh took over Galerie kreo with a new home goods collection.