Already viewed as one of Britain’s most revered designers, Martine Rose closed out this year’s London Fashion Week: Men’s festivities with a collection that stylishly disrupts as much as it does inspire. The London-based creative decidedly chose to present her eponymous label’s Fall/Winter 2020 collection within the walls of her daughter’s elementary school. Inspired by her own archival vault, much of the offering reintroduces cues that have surfaced time-and-time again throughout her career.
For instance, the phrase “Expect Perfection” comes emblazoned on a series of tops—a running theme from past collections—as does certain subsections of London, including Tottenham, Croydon, Clapham Junction and Tooting, alluding to the sentimental bond Rose harbors for each. Notoriously influenced from decades gone by, Rose regularly cites ‘80s-style club wear as influential touch points for her creations. Although, when referring to the new seasonal range, the noted designer offers this as a description; “The inspiration is always the same, it’s always about outsiders, it’s always about people on the periphery and mashing them together, because that’s what I feel is interesting and what I’m inspired by. Sometimes I’m interested in different things, that might be tailoring in one collection or it might be something else, but the essence is always the same.”
Martine intersects casual cues with ones more formal in nature, bringing to the table a collection filled with streamlined shirting options paired alongside oversized trouser silhouettes. In addition, big, bulky blazers are placed over top sharply-printed tops, while cargo-esque denim jeans star alongside box-toed derby’s. Last but certainly not least, Rose unearthed two collaborations within the collection, one with Six London on the footwear range, and the other with British brand Farah on several of the jackets and accessories.
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